Two hours on foot from First Circle down Rainbow Street and back up, starting at half past six. This is the oldest planned neighbourhood in the city, laid out in the 1920s by merchants who wanted a hill and got one. We look closely at the limestone - which quarry, which decade, which family - and at why half the villas now sell flat whites. We take the Kalha stairs partway down toward Balad for the view across the valley to the Citadel ridge, then climb back for Arabic coffee at First Circle. Two honest things before you book. Rainbow Street on a Thursday evening is not quiet: it is bumper-to-bumper cars, shisha smoke and teenagers with speakers, and you will hear every bit of it. And the return climb is a genuine climb - around 130 steps plus a slope, on pavement that is uneven in places and unlit in others. Wear the shoes you would wear for a hill, not the ones you would wear for a bar.
We started as four friends who kept getting the same question at dinner parties: where do you actually eat in Amman after eight? Not the hotel buffet, not the place with the laminated English menu. So we started walking people down into Balad ourselves. Between us we are two food writers, a former taxi driver who knows every one-way street in the valley, and an architect who will not stop talking about 1930s limestone. Every walk runs in the evening, because Amman is a different city once the heat drops and the shutters go back up. We keep the groups small, we eat standing up, and we will tell you honestly when something is overrated.
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