The Siq is a two-kilometre crack in the sandstone with a river running out of it, and the only way up is through the water. You will be wet to the chest inside three minutes. After that it stops mattering. We start at eight, before the coaches from the Dead Sea hotels arrive, which buys you the first hour with the canyon more or less empty - by eleven there is a queue at every ladder. The walls close to a few metres apart and rise forty above you, the light goes green, and the water is cold enough to be a genuine relief when the air outside is touching forty. At the top there is a waterfall you climb, on a fixed rope, with a guide's hand on your harness. Then you float most of the way back down. Two things to know: the reserve sets a minimum age of eighteen and does not bend it, and the entry ticket is paid separately at the Adventure Centre - your Jordan Pass will not cover it. Wear shoes you can swim in and are willing to write off.
We are six guides from Dhiban and the villages along the Dead Sea highway, and we work one gorge. Everything we run sits inside the RSCN's Mujib Biosphere Reserve, four hundred metres below sea level, where the water is cold and the air very much is not. Our season is April to October and then we stop entirely - once the winter rain starts the gorge fills in minutes, and nobody should be in it, us included. We will cancel on you if the reserve closes the trail or the forecast turns, and we would rather do that than walk a group into a flash flood. Bring shoes you can swim in and are prepared to throw away.
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