This is the dry one, and we say that twice on the phone because people book it expecting the river. There is no water on this trail. What there is: a 05:30 start from the Adventure Centre, ninety minutes up the escarpment on a stony switchback path, and then the gorge opening four hundred metres below you while the sun comes up behind the Moab plateau and puts the Dead Sea in flat pink light. You can usually see the Palestinian side from the top. On the way down we stop at the RSCN ibex enclosure, which is the honest version of ibex-watching in Jordan - the animals are part of a breeding programme and they are behind a fence. Wild ones do live on these cliffs and we see them perhaps one trip in five, usually at distance, usually as a shape moving on a ledge. Cardamom coffee at the turnaround. We are back before the heat properly arrives, which by June means before nine, because after that the rock radiates and the walk stops being pleasant.
We are six guides from Dhiban and the villages along the Dead Sea highway, and we work one gorge. Everything we run sits inside the RSCN's Mujib Biosphere Reserve, four hundred metres below sea level, where the water is cold and the air very much is not. Our season is April to October and then we stop entirely - once the winter rain starts the gorge fills in minutes, and nobody should be in it, us included. We will cancel on you if the reserve closes the trail or the forecast turns, and we would rather do that than walk a group into a flash flood. Bring shoes you can swim in and are prepared to throw away.
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