We start at the Citadel gate ninety minutes before sunset, walk the Temple of Hercules and the Umayyad palace, and watch the whole valley below switch its lights on at more or less the same minute. Then we go down the hill on foot to a family flat under the walls, where dinner is cooked in the kitchen you are standing in: maqluba turned out of the pot at the table, stuffed courgettes, three salads, and a tray of knafeh we carry up warm from Balad. The practical bits. The flat is a fourth-floor walk-up with no lift and the stairs are steep - tell us before you book if that rules you out and we will move you to the ground-floor family instead. The roof is glorious in May and genuinely cold from November to March; bring a jacket, we bring blankets. Citadel closing times move with the season, so your start time shifts by up to an hour across the year. And the mosque below is close enough that conversation stops for four minutes at the evening call to prayer. Most people decide that is a feature.
We started as four friends who kept getting the same question at dinner parties: where do you actually eat in Amman after eight? Not the hotel buffet, not the place with the laminated English menu. So we started walking people down into Balad ourselves. Between us we are two food writers, a former taxi driver who knows every one-way street in the valley, and an architect who will not stop talking about 1930s limestone. Every walk runs in the evening, because Amman is a different city once the heat drops and the shutters go back up. We keep the groups small, we eat standing up, and we will tell you honestly when something is overrated.
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